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Something Fishy
By Sam Sifton

"Let’s say we take an airplane somewhere." This was a fishing guide named Frank Crescitelli talking, getting around to the subject of bluefish, why it gets a bad rap, why it should not. Crescitelli is from Staten Island, where he has run a boat out of Great Kills Harbor since he was 13. He has been a guide in the city for a dozen years. You can find him online. He can tell a story.

"We fly south," he continued. "We’re in some beautiful place, the Caribbean. This guy there says he can put us on fish that fight like crazy, that jump all over the place, that grow to like 15 pounds and taste really good." He paused slightly. You’d be excited, he said, with "this guy telling you how vicious these things are, how you have to be careful of their teeth, how they bite anything, everything. They can take your finger off. They’re big! You’d want to get out there and fish right away."

Crescitelli was excited now, too. The picture was coming into focus. He sounded like the fisherman in John Hersey’s landmark 1987 book on the subject, "Blues." "Blues are magnificent animals," Hersey wrote. "I am very much in awe of the bluefish." Crescitelli, too. "It’s a great sport fish, a great eating fish," he went on to explain, but no one wants to say so because they are everywhere, from Florida to Maine, often getting in the way of their more glamorous neighbors, the striped bass. He paused again, then concluded: "Dude, if bluefish was called the Bahamian, I don’t know, whateverfish? If you could only find it up some river in the middle of nowhere, takes three days to get there? It’d be famous." More ... Cooking Articles


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