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Essence of Anchovy
From the Amalfi Coast

by Melissa Clark

In June, July and August, Cetara, a village near Capri on the Amalfi coast of Italy, looks like any other postcard-pretty spot: the sea in impossible shades of blue, a backdrop of jagged mountains dotted with citrus trees and souvenir shops filled with the usual tourist bait.

But if you visit any time else, it is another world entirely. Then the town belongs to the fishermen, specifically those trolling for the tiny silvery anchovies that crowd the calm waters.

Small boats called lampara set out on the blackest of nights, traditionally during a waning moon, and shine flashlights into the water to attract the fish to their nets.

The fish are brought to shore, where they are quickly decapitated and gutted (using only the hands and a well-practiced flick of the thumb) before being packed in layers of sea salt. (Traditionally, wooden barrels were used, but nowadays they have been replaced by plastic tubs.) More ... Cooking Articles


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